ROSALIA, WA, TO MCCALL, IDAHO

Saturday, 5-1-10

We awaken to rain and more rain.  Fred looks out the widow and chuckles at a local citizen setting up for what must be the weekly Saturday morning swap meet – IN THE RAIN!  I guess locals never let a little rain deter them.  The fella is wearing only a cap and light jacket.  To our amazement several pickups pull up and potential customers hop out to view his goods.  The rain keeps coming down.    

We pack up and the wind again begins to blow.  We don’t mind rain, we don’t mind cold, we don’t mind road repairs, we don’t mind mechanical problems, we don’t mind inconvenience and cramped quarters, but WE DO MIND THE WIND.  It is relentless on this trip and it chills you to the bones.

The weather is not good for photos and we decide it is time to head south to hopefully warmer weather.

We take a scenic side on the Old Spiral Highway to Lewiston, ID.  Then we head down Highway 95 with a side detour on the “Gold Rush Historic Byway, Highway 12 to Orofino.  Along the way we get hijacked by our curiosity and take a side road that follows the Lewis & Clark Corps of Discovery to the little town of Weippe.  There we stand in the very spot (or so the sign says) where Lewis and Clark met the Nez Perce Indians who helped them survive the winter of 1806.

We stop for lunch somewhere near Grangeville.  We stop at a small tavern for a burger (“taverns” in this neck of the woods seem to make the best ones) and get to watch Super Saver win the Kentucky Derby.

Rain and more rain.  It’s getting dark as we wind our way up the pass toward McCall, Idaho.  Around 6:30 p.m. the rain begins to turn to icey drops and before we know it we are in the midst of snow.  Snow is blowing at us full force.  It is fantastic.  I take a short video and a few still shots as we drive along. 

We reach McCall and all the campgrounds are closed still.  We find the quaint Brundage Inn and the innkeeper gives us the suite, including fireplace and kitchen for $49.50 for the night.  We are the only guests.

MOSCOW, ID, TO ROSALIA, WA

Friday, 4-30-10

We awaken to a gloomy morning, but the weather info says “sunny with clouds” and we once again head back to the Pelouse.  We are hoping for a break in the weather to finally get some good images of this truly breathtaking country.

There is no way to describe how utterly beautiful the Pelouse area is.  Rolling farmland as far as the eye can see – even as far as our binoculars can see!  We get a break in the weather and take some really nice photos.  Even the photos don’t do justice to this magnificent country.

We have decided we will definitely be back for a fall trip.  If you ever get the opportunity to be in this part of the country, you MUST drive through the Pelouse.  And when you are here, you absolutely MUST drive up Steptoe Butte for the 360-degree view.  No words can describe it and hopefully our photographs will at least give you an idea.

We also drive up Kamiak Butte that requires a half-mile uphill hike.  It, too, is breathtaking.  There are yellow daisy-like flowers and purple lupines here-and-there.   The sky is dotted with puffy white clouds and blue skies.  This is another MUST if you are ever in the area.

It’s getting late and time to hunt down a campsite.  These are sparse and far between in the Pelouse, but we find a funky little spot in the small town of Rosalia, population 625.  They have an “RV Park” with 6 sites right next to the railroad tracks.  We are the only ones there and they have instructions on a sign that says to drop our $15 in the strongbox slot.  It’s beginning to sprinkle so we drop in our check and set up camp.

CLARKSTON, WA, TO MOSCOW, ID

Thursday, 4-29-10

We wash laundry before leaving Clarkston around noon.  For some reason we have been searching for “best burger” spots on this trip (because it’s been so cold?) and the same kind lady at the desk suggests the “Burger Spot”.  We discover it is a “roach wagon” that has been pulled up to a window cut out of a newly built square room.  Crazy concept, but the burger is great and the sweet potato fries are wonderful.

We need supplies and check out the newly built WalMart nearby.  It is gigantic.  Never seen so much stuff under one roof.  We wander aimlessly up and down the aisles, delaying our return outside to the cold, windy weather.  We are trying to decide whether to head south to hopefully warmer weather or back to the Pelouse area and hopefully more photography.  We get gas and head for the heart of the Pelouse and the town of Pullman. 

The weather is gray and our photos are flat and dull.  Again, more rain and wind.  Not a good night for camping and we look for a hotel room in Pullman.  We are told there are none available due to some kind of Washington State University golden-oldies reunion.  The closest room for the night is in Moscow, Idaho, just across the border 8 miles down the road.  We get a room at the Holiday Inn Express & Suites and collapse for the night.

BOYER CAMPGROUND ON SNAKE RIVER - TO CLARKSTON, WA

 Wednesday, 4-28-10

Neither of us sleeps a wink during the night.  The rain pours down and the leaves on the cottonwoods rattle like bones.  I imagine the Snake River overflowing and carrying us all the way to the Columbia and then out to sea.  It is suppose to rain all week.

Before leaving the area we check out the locks at the Lower Granite Dam. A tugboat is moving a fish hatchery barge.  We wait awhile for the locks to open but then give up and head down the road.  

Today we will drive to the Scablands on Hwy. 26 and to Pelouse Falls.

Our drive takes us through rolling Pelouse hills that fade from bright green wheat fields to pale yellow grass to dark plowed earth.  As the farming fields fade away, we come to the Scablands, rugged rock that has been carved by centuries of erosion.  Black rock that has heated, cooled, and cracked into tall volcanic walls.  We take tons of photos in spite of a light drizzling rain. 

When we finally arrive at the turnoff to Pelouse Falls, we are met by a friendly highway worker in a bright orange vest who tells us the road is closed due to construction. 

We drive on to Clarkston, WA, looking for a warm room, a shower, and a steak dinner.  A billboard announces the local Best Western has a “hot tub” and we plug the address into our GPS.  Once there the kind lady at the desk tells us the best steak in town is at “Bojacks” downtown.  She is right.

BOYER CAMPGROUND

Tuesday, 4-27-10
 

Rain, wind, and more rain.  Spending the day in the campground clubhouse trying to catch up on the blog.  Seems we’ll be home before I ever catch up.  Have we created a monster?  But today is May 1^st as I type this and I am almost current.

I spot a new bird.  Fred says it is a “Killdeer”.  Always a surprise the things this man knows.  Sure enough, Audubon identifies it as a “Killdeer” bird and I log it into my “sightings”.

Wind still blows.  The leaves on the cottonwood trees flutter and twist and rustle.  The rain pours down but between downpours we take a short walk around the marina.  We saw a barge going down river last night and decide we will drive to the dam tomorrow and check out the locks.

Beaver Lodge to Snake River, WA

Monday, 4-26-10

The night at Beaver Lodge is freezing-ass cold, one of the coldest we have ever spent camping.  I have pulled my fuzzy headband over my ears and nose to keep them from becoming numb during the night.  In the morning we warm ourselves with our usual cup of hot mocha mix.  A slight drizzle begins to fall.

As we drive down the highway I call the gas station in Electric City and a very nice man named “Don” says he will mail our gas cap to our home.  We are glad to know it will be there when we return.  In the meantime, the white rag hangs out of our gas tank.

We drive north toward the tiny town of Tiger, WA.  We pass through a forest of pine trees that seem to have some kind of black oozing blight.  The forest looks sickly.

We enter Idaho and drive to Coeur d’Alene – the name French traders gave to the local Indians meaning, “shrewd traders.”  We decide to take a walk along their “floating boardwalk” but discover it is closed and under repair.   Maybe next time.

Again we drive, this time south to Palouse, WA, in the heart of the famous wheat fields of eastern Washington.  Once sand dunes, nature has worked her magic and they are now some of the largest producing grain fields in the world:  wheat, barley, lentils and dried peas.   The entire area is known as “the Palouse” and is widely photographed.  It is getting late and we drive on, looking for a place to camp.

We end up at Boyer Campground on the Snake River.  We are just below the Lower Granite Lock and Dam  (photo below).  The wind is blowing, it is cold, and guess what, it is starting to rain.  I fix my signature dinner:  canned chicken vegetable soup with the last of our crusty bakery bread.

Grand Coulee Dam to Beaver Lodge on Lake Gillette, WA

Sunday 4-25-10

We awaken to a bright sunny day, one of the few on the trip so far  (have I failed to mention all the rain?).  Fred pulls the curtains open and points out a chubby little gray bird eating the blossoms on the neighboring tree.  I grab my Phone and check my new Audubon app I downloaded just for this trip.  We discover the little bird is a White Crowned Sparrow.  During the morning walk we also identify a California Quail, a Brown-headed Cowbird and an American Robin.  Bird watching is new for us so we are giddy with this new found knowledge.

I make blueberry pancakes for breakfast while Fred fries bacon outside on the portable camp burner.

We pack things up and Fred picks a route for the day.  We head north on a scenic byway that meanders along the side of Lake Roosevelt.  But first we gas up in Electric City (clever name, huh).  Our route takes us through miles and miles of winding hills covered with some sort of grain – fields of green and brown.

We stop for gas in Colville.  Fred reaches for the gas cap key and it’s not there.  We look at each other, startled.  I open the door and look at the gas cap….it’s not there!  We have left it 90 miles back at Electric City.  I am now laughing my head off and Fred is not.  I had tried to get him to buy an extra gas cap after we had left it on our Lake Powell trip and also on our Bridgeport trip.  But no, he said this time he, “won’t ever be forgetting it again.” 

He stuffs a rag into the gas tank hole and off we go.  We now look like poor white trash driving down the highway rather than an aging hippie couple!

The sun is sinking into the west and we come upon “Beaver Lodge” on Hwy. 20.  It’s a beautiful spot on Lake Gillette - great reflections and evening light.  We take lots of photos before cooking dinner.  We sit by the campfire listening to the Canadian Geese settling in for the night across the lake.

Lake Chelan, WA to Grand Coulee Dam, WA

Saturday, 4-24-10

We catch the Lady Express for the two-hour ride to Stehekin.  It’s cold outside and we sit inside to stay warm (photo below).  The hills are barren with only a little snow, but we do see a courageous mountain goat clinging to a sharp cliff. 

Once at Stehekin, we board a small bus for a short ride to Stehekin Falls, 312 feet tall.  Like most tall waterfalls, it is very impressive.  Makes one feel so tiny.

We grab a great cheeseburger at the local café before catching the Lady Express back to Chelan.

Our goal for tonight is to camp near the Grand Coulee Dam.  The dam has created a humongous lake, Lake Roosevelt Recreation Area.  Along the shoreline we find Spring Canyon Campground and set up camp.   It turns out to be one of our all-time favorite campsites.  We overlook the lake and the fee is only $5.00.  It blows our minds.  ONLY FIVE DOLLARS?!$%@#!!!??  Unbelievable.  And it’s only $10 during high season.  We decide we should start an app for the iPhone “Our Favorite Campsites”.

We slice some “Jack & Sarah” ham and cook grilled ham and cheese sandwiches for dinner.

Sultan, WA to Lake Chelan, WA

Friday, 4-23-10

We have camped on the Skykomish River and will be driving today along the Cascade Loop.  Our first stop is Wallace Falls in Gold Bar.  We hike the trail and are bummed we were too lazy to carry our tripods as the shadows make photography difficult.  We decide not to do the 3-mile hike to the falls as the sun is rising and becoming too harsh for good photos.

We head onward along the Cascade Loop and stop for lunch at the Bavarian town of Leavenworth (not the prison).  We eat at “Munchen Haus” and order the bratwurst and a beer to share.  It’s good but we wish we had ordered the kilbasa.

We stroll along the sidewalk looking at shops and search for an aebelskiver for dessert (a Dutch pancake thingy).  There are none to be found.  Should we move to Leavenworth and open a thriving aebelskiver business?  Perhaps not.

We continue along the Cascade Loop toward the town of Peshastin.  We are surrounded by gnarly fruit trees with profuse white blossoms.  We’re thinking they might be pears.  We take many photos.  There are miles and miles of these white trees.  Finally we decide they must be the famous Washington apples.  Sure enough we finally see clues:  “Apple Annie Motel”, “The Apple Place”, “Tree Top” apple juice processing plant.

Our route takes us along the magnificent Wanatche River, “the most rafted river in the state of Washington.”  There are deep gorges with turbulent white water.

We continue to Lake Chelan and find a camping site at the City Park.  We set the alarm for 7:30 a.m. for a boat ride up the lake to the remote town of Stehekin  on the Lady Express.  The town is accessible only by floatplane or boat, population 150 if you count summer cottage owners.

  

Seattle To Sultan. WA

Thursday, 4-23-10

I go for a morning walk while Jack makes Mexican hot cocoa.  No, Jack is not jobless.  He and Sarah own a Bark Buster franchise in the Seattle area.  Jack “trains” people on how to manage their dogs.  So, fortunately, he has arranged his training schedule around our stay.

We roll out the awning on the van, lay out our beautiful new mat, set up some chairs, and we all drink hot cocoa as we look out upon the view from their hillside.  It’s our last morning here and it’s time to pack up.  As we are packing our stuff, I turn around to see Rex lying on the bed on top of our clothes.  His head is resting on his paws and his eyes are saying, “Please, don’t leave.”  (Photo Below).

The four of us (not Rex) have lunch at our favorite dim sum restaurant in Seattle’s Chinatown district at the “Jade Garden”.  If you have never had dim sum, this is a MUST.  And if you are ever in Seattle, the “Jade Garden” is a “HAVE TO.”  The waitresses push little carts around and stop at your table and pop the lids off the steamed goodies, or BBQ’d, or baked specialties.  You pick what you want and they mark your tab.  It is absolutely to die for.

We say goodbye to our dear friends, leaving Rex behind as we wave goodbye.  

Our first stop is in the small town of Sultan, WA, at the information office.  We gather up our brochures and head for a campground she recommends outside of town.  It’s “Leisure Time Resorts – Thunderbird Campground” on the Sultan River – kind of pricey for camping ($40) but we have only one other option down the road and it looks evil so we pay up.  It’s the off-season and we pretty much have the place to ourselves, right on the river. 

Sarah has packed us some ham and we make sandwiches for dinner.  I journal while Fred does something on the computer.

Seattle Some More

Wednesday, 4-22-10

First words out of Fred’s mouth this morning, “I want Krispy Kreme donuts!”  While Fred and Rex drive down the hill to get donuts, I eat a bowl of Jack’s homemade granola and Sarah gets ready to go to work.

Later in the day Jack, Fred, and I (and of course The Wonder Dog) go to Fry’s to find a GPS suction mount (we left ours home and it keeps annoyingly falling off the dash).  We eat lunch at “Ivars” on the lake after which we check out a couple steamboat hobbyists and their cute little 20-foot boats.  One is over 100 years old.

We pick up Sarah and head to the Eddie Bauer Outlet looking for a jacket for Fred.  He actually finds one he likes (we have been searching for over 10 years, I kid you not).  I buy a couple sweaters on sale ($8.99 ea) and Sarah buys a pair of $80 shoes on sale for $17.  Jack buys a cap with an LED light built into the bill.  Fred now wishes he had bought one for himself.

Ham sandwiches for dinner and we all cheer when Tim Urban is finally voted off Idol.  We check our group lottery numbers and must face the harsh reality of continuing to live among the common folk.

Seattle Still

Tuesday, 4-21-10

The sky is once again overcast and drizzly.  Gray skies, no “Dutchmen’s Britches” (patches of blue sky)).  The five of us (yes, including Rex) pile into their “Bark Busters” SUV and head north to the tulip fields.  We drive quite a while along Highway 5 until finally taking a turn off down a country road.  For miles all we see are empty, brown dirt farm fields – no tulips.  When we do see tulip fields they are past their prime – all the blooms have been cut off and all we see are patches of color from blooms that have fallen on the ground.  We have obviously missed the height of the tulip season.

We stop at “Rozen Gaarde”, one of the major tulip growers in the area, and pay $4 each (thank you Sarah) to walk through their tulip gardens.  There is a vast variety of shapes, color, and sizes.  Some of them are truly spectacular.  We take lots of photos.  Fred gets some great ones, mine are so-so.

We head back for Seattle and stop at the little town of LA Conner, named after Louise A. Conner, a woman who evidently contributed a lot of money to the town.  We have lunch at the Waterfront Café on the Sammamish River.

It’s raining all the way home as Fred and I doze in the back seat.

In the evening we watch American Idol and all agree Crystal Bowersox should win.  Then we accidentally catch an episode of “Glee” and their tribute to Madonna.  We are surprised because it is actually really good.

Lights out around 10:30.

Seattle

Monday, 4-20-10

The hippie van is in the auto repair shop.  Jack takes us for a drive around Lake Washington and we stop to throw the ball for Rexy.  Then it’s back to their condo while Fred takes a nap, Sarah goes to work at “Dragonfly” and Jack and I make cookies.  But not just any cookie, chocolate covered Ritz Crackers cookies.  You won’t believe these (food again!).  It is such a fun recipe and Jack and I get carried away with experimenting with different toppings.

Jack and Fred go to pick up the VW while I take a nap.  Then we head out to pick up Sarah at “Dragonfly”.  It’s an adorable shop with unique and interesting Asian imports:  jewelry, scarves, some small furniture, etc.  We walk upstairs and have drinks and appetizers for dinner.

It’s back to the condo where we visit on the balcony until the mosquitoes drive us inside.  Fred reads us the latest headlines from his laptop:  the volcano in Iceland, who got kicked off American Idol, Carrie Underwood winning a CMA award, and the fact that married people live longer than single people.  Then we do a “brainstorming” session on what time to leave for the tulip fields in the morning.  Sarah’s suggestion wins:  8:30 a.m.

Rex jumps up on the bed with us.  Fred scratches his ear as I doze off to sleep.

Cannon Beach to Seattle, WA

Sunday, 4-19-10

Ok, as I am typing this today is actually 4-29-10 and we have been gone 3 weeks and our blog is still only up to the end of the first week.  This blogging thing is not as easy as it sounds.

So, on Sunday, 4-19-10, we leave Cannon Beach and look for a good hamburger somewhere.  We stop at the little town of Elma, WA, and come upon “Betty’s Kitchen”.  There are several cars in the parking lot so it meets our first criteria for whether or not go in.  We decide yes.  Inside there is a long bar, a dance floor, booths to the side, and as we sit down we notice there is a man and three women playing poker at a table near us.  Great burger and fries, highly recommend it if you are ever in Elma, WA.

I’m starting to notice a pattern here.  I write a lot about the food we eat.

Anyway, finally at the end of week one we arrive at Jack and Sarah Knudsen’s in Seattle.  Jack and dog Rex (a McNab breed – photo at beginning of blog) are in the driveway as we drive up.  We’re still parking on uphill slopes so we back the van into their driveway.  Tomorrow we have an appointment to get a new starter installed.

Jack and Sarah’s place is fabulous with a wonderful view of Issaquah below and Lake Washington in the distance.  Jack has prepared a surprise dinner for us:  baked ham, scalloped potatoes, coleslaw and corn muffins, accompanied with a bottle of Malbec wine.  Dessert is his homemade pear tart.  Dinner is wonderful!  Notice I’m talking food again.

We get the guest room downstairs and Rex the Wonder Dog joins us at the foot of the bed (when he’s not between us).

Cape Lookout to Cannon Beach

Saturday, 4-18-10

We awaken to the sound of light rain pitter pattering on the roof.  It's cold out so we go back to sleep.  At 8:30 a.m. we walk to the showers.  They are the water conserving-type and turn off ever couple minutes, but no problem, just hit the button again and it turns back on.  Except it comes back on cold and then heats up just in time to turn off again.

We drive up the coast and watch clam diggers searching for clams in Netarts Bay.  Suddenly I am craving clam chowder for lunch.  But first we stop at Point Mears Lighthouse.  It's still raining as we walk the sloping path to the lighthouse.  We notice some tire tracks in the grassy area and wonder who would have driven their car off the pavement.  Once we reach the lighthouse we are told the stairs to the tower are closed because vandals drove their car down to the overlook and with a high powered rifle shot out the 100 year old light.  A $5,000 reward has turned up a couple suspects.  They estimate it will cost about $500,000 to repair it but some of the original-type glass is no longer available.  Fred and I actually get teary eyed and we make sure to put some money in the donation box when we leave.

On the road again, we head toward Tillamook, OR where we will search down clam chowder for lunch.  It's not a big town but we find an interesting old tavern called the "Rendezvous Restaurant and Lounge" complete with brown naugahyde seats and dim yellow lamps hanging over the booths.  The waitress swears they have the best clam chowder around so somewhat skeptically we each order a bowl.   When it arrives Fred puts his spoon in it and it stands up without assistance.  But amazingly it is very delicious and surprisingly satisfying.  We are happy.

A quick stop at the little bookstore nearby and Fred find some more Louis Lamour books.  I find a Carol Burnett biography and a book about women of the wild west.

We also dash into the Blue Herron Cheese Store just out of town and buy a fabulous pepper covered brie for cocktail hour at Jack and Sarah’s.

Finally we make our way to Cannon Beach and the Sunset RV Park.  We meet some nice neighbors and share notes on camping in Baja.   I fix a mew camping recipe “Camp Au Gratin Potatoes” that are made with top secret ingredients.  If you want to know, just ask and I’ll share the recipe.

Honeyman to Cape Lookout

Friday – April 16, 2010

Once again we are in search of that wonderful restaurant.  I check out the Auto Club Oregon Tour Book and it seems to be the “Local Fish” restaurant in Newport, OR on historical Bay Street.   That sounds like the place.  Sure enough, it is.  We park on a downhill slope  -  just in case.  We share a  Shrimp Louie salad and fish and chips.  Lin cod sautéed in panco crumbs with fries and a great slaw.  The food is just as good as we remember.

We return to the van hoping it will start.  The engine barely turns over and then quits.  This time Fred thinks it’s the battery and not the starter.  It’s an old battery and maybe time to replace it.  The closest Sears is in Salem, OR, an hour away and we decide it’s worth the trip.  It takes only 30 minutes to get a new battery and we drive back to the coast.  We are hoping this has solved the problem, but Fred still thinks the starter needs replacing and that can’t be done until we reach Seattle.

The Oregon road map has a little green tent near the town of “Netarts” so we decide to search for the campground.  We wind along a narrow road above the ocean that finally ends at a magnificent view of Cape Lookout (photo below).  We find the Cape Lookout campground on the beach.  This is now one of our favorite campgrounds.  It is a short walk to the beach where we take photos until sunset. 

Dinner is grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup – fancy, huh?  No forest tonight, just coastal waves and stars.

Smith River to Honeyman Campground, OR

Thursday – April 15, 2010

We drive along Hwy 199 following the Smith River.  We are looking for the Wagon Wheel Motel where my family always stayed.  We find it CLOSED and dilapidated.  Looks like it has been this way for several years.  Kind of sad but still a place that provides fond memories.

We drive north along the Oregon Coast.   We have lunch in a little café bakery in Bandon Beach.   As we drive onward we decide to look for one of our favorite restaurants for dinner.  Only problem is we can’t remember the name or what city.  We remember it was on a waterfront after we crossed a bridge.  In Florence, OR, we cross a bridge and we turn down to the waterfront.  We are excited, we are getting closer, and we are hungry.  Only to realize this is not the city.   Where is it?

We back track and find a campsite at Honeyman Camp Ground by the Oregon Dunes.  Lots of dune buggies everywhere, but it is relatively quiet on a weekday.  It’s a pretty spot like most of the Oregon State Parks.  They are always so green and clean.

We have chicken noodle soup for dinner and I steam a chocolate camp cake for dessert.

Redwoods to the Smith River

Wednesday – April 14, 2010

Morning in the redwoods.  A soft rain drops through the thick forest.  We’ve picked a sloping site just in case a push is necessary, so we spend the night crawling back up to the end of the bed.  It’s cold outside our cozy van.  I fix fried eggs and ham sandwiches and coffee for breakfast.  We pack up and take Hwy. 101 toward Garberville on our way to the Smith River.  Three years ago we stopped at a café in
Garberville on our way to Canada and the owner lady told us to buy every gold maple leaf Canadian coin we can get our hands on.  We bought one for $367.  It’s now worth 4 times that.  We should have listened more seriously to her.

We take a side road off the 101 and find ourselves at the Klamath River Overlook.   It is a spectacular view and we stop to take some photos.  We plug in “Jill” our GPS lady and head back to the highway towards the town of Ferndale.  It’s a charming little community of dairy farms and long lost hippies with gingerbread houses dating back to the early 1900’s.  We take photos of houses, doorways, and old cemetery headstones.

Our stop for lunch is at the Samoa Cookhouse just outside of Eureka.  It was recommended to us by sister Ramona’s friend Pam and was part of a Huell Howser “California Gold”.  Served family style, the menu for lunch is salad, chicken fiesta soup, chicken fried steak with masked potatoes, fresh peas, BBQ beans and pineapple upside down cake for dessert.  What a feast.  We highly recommend it if you are ever up that way.  Delicious! 

Our destination for the day is the Smith River, designated as one of California’s scenic and wild rivers.  We arrive at early evening, plenty of time for a walk along the river.  It is such a magnificent river.  Huge gray boulders, emerald water, white rapids.  I fondly remember it from my childhood.   Our family winter vacations were along this river as Dad fished for steelhead and Mom fried fish for dinner.

Tonight we eat lightly and I look forward to a drive along the Smith River in the morning.

The Redwoods

Tuesday, 4-13-10

On the road, destination redwoods.  We take the 880 around San Francisco to San Rafael.  Stop for a quick bite at McDonald's.  Get back into the van to leave and IT WON'T START!!! Not again! Why does our faithful VW Vanagon only do this when we go on vacation?  Doesn't she know we got a personalized license plate for her that reads GUD HPNS (Good Happens)?  I get out and push and Fred pops the clutch.  We find our way to the local VW dealership.  Of course now she starts up each time.  Nothing to do but go on our merry way.  We'll just have to make sure to park on a downhill slope each time.  No bid deal, we've done this before on vacation.  Besides, we are heading for the redwoods and life is good.

It's now pouring as we drive north (see photo).  We arrive at the Avenue of The Giants and find our way to Burlington Campground in Humboldt Redwood State Park.  It's only raining slightly now.  We find a good downhill sloping site.  Fred builds a fire and I pour a couple cocktails - margarita for him, cosmo for me.  It's soup & crackers for dinner.  Some warm Cafe d'Vita while we read.  Lights out.

Gowesty and Monterey

Monday 4/12/2010 - Gowesty
Gowesty is probably the largest VW Vanagon shop on the West coast, maybe even in the US. They are installing an awning and a set of lift-assist struts for the pop-top. Turns out that one of our rear springs is broken, so we have them  replace both rear springs. The van rides like a dream now, we just didn't realize how bad it was getting.

We head for Monterey around 1:45 and it's beginning to sprinkle.  We arrive at our favorite little historic hotel the Monterey Inn.  It has lost some of it's charm.  The elevator no longer works and we haul our luggage upstairs.  The carpet in the lobby could use cleaning.  Our favorite Room 212 overlooking Alvarado Street seems to have shrunk and the walls seem to be thinner.  Or did we just not care in the past?  Is it our age?

We have dinner on Cannery Row at our favorite Paradisio.  We ask for a table by the window but it is too chilly to push them open for the usual bay breeze.  We always look forward to the bread but this time it is disappointingly ordinary and the parsley pesto tastes odd.  We enjoy a cold artichoke appetizer with aioli and Fred says the clam chowder is the best he's even eaten.  We share the $26 special of sole stuffed with lobster and mushrooms and it seems a little bland.  We decide next time we will enjoy the fabulous view and be content with wine and appetizers.

In spite of some minor disappointments in hotel and food, we enjoy our stay.  We were able to take several photos along the coast in Pacific Grove - Fred took this one.